This story originally appeared in Grist and is part of the Climate Desk collaboration.
In 2023, the fast-fashion giant Shein was everywhere. Crisscrossing the globe, airplanes ferried small packages of its ultra-cheap clothing from thousands of suppliers to tens of millions of customer mailboxes in 150 countries. Influencersâ â#sheinhaulâ videos advertised the companyâs trendy styles on social media, garnering billions of views.
At every step, data was created, collected, and analyzed. To manage all this information, the fast fashion industry has begun embracing emerging AI technologies. Shein uses proprietary machine-learning applications â essentially, pattern-identification algorithms â to measure customer preferences in real time and predict demand, which it then services with an ultra-fast supply chain.
As AI makes the business of churning out affordable, on-trend clothing faster than ever, Shein is among the brands under increasing pressure to become more sustainable, too. The company has pledged to reduce its carbon dioxide emissions by 25 percent by 2030 and achieve net-zero emissions no later than 2050.
But climate advocates and researchers say the companyâs lightning-fast manufacturing practices and online-only business model are inherently emissions-heavy â and that the use of AI software to catalyze these operations could be cranking up its emissions. Those concerns were amplified by Sheinâs third annual sustainability report, released late last month, which showed the company nearly doubled its carbon dioxide emissions between 2022 and 2023.
âAI enables fast fashion to become the ultra-fast fashion industry, Shein and Temu being the fore-leaders of this,â said Sage Lenier, the executive director of Sustainable and Just Future, a climate nonprofit. âThey quite literally could not exist without AI.â (Temu is a rapidly rising ecommerce titan, with a marketplace of goods that rival Sheinâs in variety, price, and sales.)
In the 12 years since Shein was founded, it has become known for its uniquely prolific manufacturing, which reportedly generated over $30 billion of revenue for the company in 2023. Although estimates vary, a new Shein design may take as little as 10 days to become a garment, and up to 10,000 items are added to the site each day. The company reportedly offers as many as 600,000 items for sale at any given time with an average price tag of roughly $10. (Shein declined to confirm or deny these reported numbers.) One market analysis found that 44 percent of Gen Zers in the United States buy at least one item from Shein every month.
That scale translates into massive environmental impacts. According to the companyâs sustainability report, Shein emitted 16.7 million total metric tons of carbon dioxide in 2023 â more than what four coal power plants spew out in a year. The company has also come under fire for textile waste, high levels of microplastic pollution, and exploitative labor practices. According to the report, polyester â a synthetic textile known for shedding microplastics into the environment â makes up 76 percent of its total fabrics, and only 6 percent of that polyester is recycled.
